This cakes history derives from Jewish-Spain origins before the middle ages. The techniques stemmed from an abundance of nuts and a lack of wheat- or the means not to make a flour; word quickly spread throughout the Mediterranean. It’s a good thing as not only does it happen to be naturally gluten free but it has the most delicious, crumbly texture.
My version uses the slightly bitter Seville oranges which are nearing the end of their season in February so grab them while you can – they add an intriguing edge.
For the cake
2 medium unwaxed oranges, preferably Seville, if available
225g caster sugar
1 tbsp honey
6 eggs, separated
300g ground almonds
1/4 tsp salt
For the caramel syrup
4 Seville oranges or 4 ordinary oranges and 1.5 lemons
150ml sweet marsala
A handful of flaked almonds
1 tbsp (plus extra for taste) Demerara sugar, to taste
2 tbsp candied orange peel
Put the oranges for the cake in a small pan and cover with water (they will bob to the top). Cover and bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer for about 1.5-2 hours, turning once, until soft. Drain and allow to cool slightly. Then cut open to check for pips, removing any you find (Sevilles have a fair few), and puree.
Heat the oven to 180C, and grease and line a 23cm spring form tin.
Beat together the egg yolks, sugar and honey until thick and pale, then fold in the almonds, followed by the puree until well combined.
Whisk the egg whites and salt until stiff peaks, then gradually fold into the batter, being careful to knock as little air out as possible. Spoon into the tin and bake for about 45-50 minutes, or until firm on top.
Meanwhile, squeeze the fruit for the syrup into a pan along with the marsala and add spoonful of sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes, stirring as you go to dissolve the sugar, then taste and add more sugar as necessary. Add the peel and almonds then allow to cool.
When the cake comes out of the oven, leave it in the tin to cool. When cool, remove from the tin, cut into slices and serve with the caramel spooned over and the mascarpone on the side.
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This month’s Dish with Tish is a proper end of summer roast: Beef Sirloin, Pink Fir Potatoes and Chilli al Forno with Salmoriglio on the side.